I don't know what Ann Demeulmeester used as a reference for her SS13 collection, but I am getting some serious vampy undertones with her showcase. Beautiful swathes of silk brocade jackets, long overcoats, and velvet suits channeled a sense of gothic romanticism and whimsicality, while a touch of Orientalism through floral prints and kimono shirts added a smidge of androgyny. The look was part Lestat de Lioncourt circa 1990 and part Johnny Depp in Dark Shadows. The colours were astoundingly rich in a palette of 'bruised fruit' hues (a la Biba)- beautiful shades of aubergine, tangerine, and midnight blue. The silhouette was relaxed and cool, and though the overall look remained seductive, foppish and almost a little too-clichéd-lethario, there remained still a clear sense of sartorial masculinity through masterful tailoring and fit.
[images: Showstudio]
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