I've finally found some time to peruse over the men's collections being showcased in
London, and thanks to Showstudio for their comprehensive catalogue and up-to-date reporting! For a Spring/Summer showcase I'm pretty happy that most of the designers went for a darker tone. Definitely no Hawaiian shirts here, but you know what I mean. I'm totally not a summer baby and so I always avoid the season fully, but these collections display pieces that look almost anti-summery and for that I am delighted! Here are the collections that caught my eye, and while they not be as exciting and shocking as some (still reeling from a flamingo-induced migraine
Katie Eary!), I chose them because realistically I would choose to wear most of these pieces, and they don't have that trend-y vibe.
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J.W. Anderson- Last season, the designer gave us boys in dresses. This season, I find a stronger backbone in Anderson's concept, enough edge to take him up the ranks- in the same field as someone like Yohji Yamamoto or Rei Kawakubo, and I feel like I have a better idea of him as a designer and his vision. I love the origami folds and the sinuous flow of his silhouette. He understands contrast and the power of a minimalist touch (a stark contrast to his latest offerings for Versus.) There's a sense of refinement and austerity in these pieces but it still remains explorative of the boundaries of gender and fashion. And you know he'll only get better with each season. |
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Matthew Miller- What drew me to Miller's collection was the sense of freedom, practicality and reality in his aesthetic. The clothes seem comfortable, utterly chic, and just effortless. It's a silhouette that I appreciate, especially since I'm no model. Out of the lot, these are pieces that you would probably find in my wardrobe and continually shop for on the high street. This would be my idea of summer dressing. |
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Topman Design- I think this embroidered shirt was the most hyped thing on all my social feeds! I wasn't particularly keen on it at first but it is a grower, but just you wait until all the hipsters of the world get ahold of these. Personally, I liked the genre mix from this collection- 80's club-kid finds himself stuck in a barn dance somewhere in the American heartland. It's not something I would wear, but it's a look I'm intrigued by. |
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Burberry Prorsum- Christopher Bailey's collection was made even sweeter by the fact that he had chosen to bring the show back to its home in London. And what was the result? A loveletter to British heritage- classic preppy nuances, a hint of mod and that youthful surge of esprit that one can feel emanating from his clothes. All written with bright Crayola primaries which makes for a great play at colour but also sustainability. These are pieces that have the potential to be classic wardrobe staples. And even though there wasn't as much experimentation or groundbreaking innovation, I would take this collection over last season's cybernetic haul any day. |
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E. Tautz- I think this collection gave me the most fun exploration of colour, texture and design. The prints are fun but measured- never giving in to the maximalist trend of seizure inducing visuals. The sheen is a little derivative from last season but all in all, E.Tautz served colour-blocking 101 in the most vibrant way. I also like the Amish touch on those hats. |
[images:
Showstudio]
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