LCM SS14: Top Picks from the Collections (Thus far..)

I've finally found some time to peruse over the men's collections being showcased in London, and thanks to Showstudio for their comprehensive catalogue and up-to-date reporting!  For a Spring/Summer showcase I'm pretty happy that most of the designers went for a darker tone. Definitely no Hawaiian shirts here, but you know what I mean. I'm totally not a summer baby and so I always avoid the season fully, but these collections display pieces that look almost anti-summery and for that I am delighted! Here are the collections that caught my eye, and while they not be as exciting and shocking as some (still reeling from a flamingo-induced migraine Katie Eary!), I chose them because realistically I would choose to wear most of these pieces, and they don't have that trend-y vibe. 

J.W. Anderson- Last season, the designer gave us boys in dresses. This season, I find a stronger backbone in Anderson's concept, enough edge to take him up the ranks- in the same field as someone like Yohji Yamamoto or Rei Kawakubo, and I feel like I have a better idea of him as a designer and his vision. I love the origami folds and the sinuous flow of his silhouette. He understands contrast and the power of a minimalist touch (a stark contrast to his latest offerings for Versus.) There's a sense of refinement and austerity in these pieces but it still remains explorative of the boundaries of gender and fashion. And you know he'll only get better with each season. 

Matthew Miller- What drew me to Miller's collection was the sense of freedom, practicality and reality in his aesthetic. The clothes seem comfortable, utterly chic, and just effortless. It's a silhouette that I appreciate, especially since I'm no model. Out of the lot, these are pieces that you would probably find in my wardrobe and continually shop for on the high street. This would be my idea of summer dressing.

Topman Design- I think this embroidered shirt was the most hyped thing on all my social feeds! I wasn't particularly keen on it at first but it is a grower, but just you wait until all the hipsters of the world get ahold of these. Personally, I liked the genre mix from this collection- 80's club-kid finds himself stuck in a barn dance somewhere in the American heartland. It's not something I would wear, but it's a look I'm intrigued by.

Burberry Prorsum- Christopher Bailey's collection was made even sweeter by the fact that he had chosen to bring the show back to its home in London. And what was the result? A loveletter to British heritage- classic preppy nuances, a hint of mod and that youthful surge of esprit that one can feel emanating from his clothes. All written with bright Crayola primaries which makes for a great play at colour but also sustainability. These are pieces that have the potential to be classic wardrobe staples. And even though there wasn't as much experimentation or groundbreaking innovation, I would take this collection over last season's cybernetic haul any day. 

E. Tautz- I think this collection gave me the most fun exploration of colour, texture and design. The prints are fun but measured- never giving in to the maximalist trend of seizure inducing visuals. The sheen is a little derivative from last season but all in all, E.Tautz served colour-blocking 101 in the most vibrant way. I also like the Amish touch on those hats. 

[images: Showstudio]

Milan Menswear S/S13: Burberry Prorsum

There were a lot going on at the Burberry Prorsum showcase, and I was left rather...bemused. On the one hand, I applaud Christopher Bailey's progressive vision and his constantly adventurous strides (i.e. last season's whimsical collection of animal motifs against classic Burberry DNA), however with his summer 'Come Rain or Shine' collection, I wasn't sold on the idea. While his fabulous space-age, tutti-frutti pieces look slick and cool, perfect for young fashionistas who wish to brighten up the dready grey that is the British summer, they are hardly classic nor iconic. I think Lou Stoppard's review of the show sums up my sentiments in that, "Burberry’s collections are always at their best when born from a clear and simple idea.", and unlike his past successes with famed pieces (such as the A/W10 aviator jacket, or his studded S/S11 collection), this current collection stands to suffer from looking dated hence a short wardrobe life. Needless to say, this critique does not apply to all of his clothes. Classic and well tailored suits appeared on the runway in a modish silhouette, and diamond shaped prints injected the clothes with enough whimsical touch to carry over from last season. 

[images: Wallpaper]

MFW: Burberry Prorsum A/W12 Menswear

For a Fall collection, it seems an odd choice to create a showacase full of bright popping hues, but then again when we get the winter blues it is this exact touch that lifts our mood and brings life to the cold and wintry season. This year, Christopher Bailey styled the Burberry gent in a very Dick Van Dyke-esque attire; Streamlined silhouettes, double breasted suits and a complete array of gentlemanly accessories including flatcaps, gloves and umbrellas. They all sound very typical of the label's aesthetic but the look was invigorated by bright jewel tones in turquoise, topaz and jasper, and rich earthy ochre hues in saffron and burnt sienna. Bailey continues his globetrotting colour swatch and it is made all the more striking against a conservative canvas of charcoal and dove gray suits. To battle the cold the boys were equipped with tri-colour striped overcoats, puffy windbreakers and cropped bomber jackets of tweed and flannel. To finish off the look, Bailey decided to take a cheeky turn and added quirky animals motifs, which already is looking like the IT trend of the season. Foxes appeared zanily across cozy woollen jumpers, while the suave umbrellas were capped with hand-carved ducks as handles. 

LFW: Burberry Prorsum S/S12

The lines at Burberry Prorsum were fifties-influenced with tight knitted jumpers, cinched in waists and full, midi skirts. On paper, it was classic-nothing too outrageous, yet Christopher Bailey managed to throw us off with a knockout injection of rich, motherland flavour. Working with a lavish colour swatch of grape, aqua, teal, chartreuse and burnt sienna, it was a visual cocktail of globe-trotting aesthetics made even richer by Bailey's creative genius. There was a hint of African spice in the air; woven leather, raffia accents, mosaic appliqués and colourful jewellery complemented the geometric prints. Highlights include a cyan blue leather trench, multicoloured weekend totes, woven leather sleeved parkas, and mosaic-style embellished jumpers.