LFW Standout: Giles Deacon S/S12

Giles Deacon took a major swan dive (pardon the pun!) with his Spring collection, into the theatrical planes of Cecil Beaton and Andy Warhol. The tone was staggeringly dramatic and flamboyant- swan-headdresses fashioned by milliner Stephen Jones took to the heads of models while they strutted down in beautiful couture dresses in chiffon, Swiss lace, duchess silk and tulle. The silhouette was streamlined and dignified- there were beautiful embroidery, laser-cut leather dresses, a cascade of ostrich feathers- all in a debonair palette of stark white, silver, blush, red and black. The Giles woman was to be a modern bright young thing, with a touch more excess. Closing the collection was a beautiful red ensemble that was evocative of the late Alexander McQueen's work.

LFW: Burberry Prorsum S/S12

The lines at Burberry Prorsum were fifties-influenced with tight knitted jumpers, cinched in waists and full, midi skirts. On paper, it was classic-nothing too outrageous, yet Christopher Bailey managed to throw us off with a knockout injection of rich, motherland flavour. Working with a lavish colour swatch of grape, aqua, teal, chartreuse and burnt sienna, it was a visual cocktail of globe-trotting aesthetics made even richer by Bailey's creative genius. There was a hint of African spice in the air; woven leather, raffia accents, mosaic appliqués and colourful jewellery complemented the geometric prints. Highlights include a cyan blue leather trench, multicoloured weekend totes, woven leather sleeved parkas, and mosaic-style embellished jumpers. 

LFW Standout: Holly Fulton S/S12

Today, the social media portals were set abuzz by Holly Fulton's traffic-stopping collection. So much so that for a good three hours, my Twitter feed read nothing but of this infamous showcase. When I finally got the chance to see it for myself online, I understood the conniption. It was bright, spunky and fun- art deco meets Gianni's legacy at Versace (that which Donatella chose evoke and pay tribute to in her Menswear SS12 and her upcoming collaboration with H&M). However, it wasn't all reference work, as Fulton's collection shows growth from her previous efforts. The prints are heavier and more dynamic without being overbearing, the colours are bolder than ever (even her monochromatic pieces look feisty!), and what she has presented shows a definitive stamp of what her style is all about. The Fulton girl is cool and hip, daring and provocative. Someone we all secretly want to be. I think it's safe to say that this Spring, to shy away from colour would be to commit a total fashion faux pas. 

LFW: Vivienne Westwood Red Label S/S12

The feel of the collection vibrated tones of ferociousness and earthy glamour, as Dame Westwood presents a collection fit for the queens of today's urban jungles. As with every other show, the grand Dame always builds her presentation around some sociological topic in order to create a collection with substance as well as style, and this Spring collection was no exception. With a rich colour swatch of earthy ochres and bright jewel hues, the tone was earthy and sauvage chic, perhaps even with a smidge of Italian Renaissance. The clothes were classic Westwood; the silhouette was deconstructed yet softened by her signature nonchalance with draping, working well with the feminine form. There were safari overtones as well as her trademark, tartan-clad androgynous power femme. Atop their heads were manes so and the make-up was bold and strong, with contoured and bronzed cheeks, while the eyes sported bright and vivid colours in turquoise, fuchsia, and emerald. Some models even had paint marks drawn on their faces, evoking a native and ethnic feel that totally complements this unrefined and organic mien. Indulge in the richness of this savage beauty. 

LFW: Julien Macdonald S/S12

The ladies at Julien Macdonald were statuesque and futuristic. Sleek silhouettes nipped at the waist set the mood, and as far as colour was concerned, it was conservative but with surprising jolts of bright jewel tones in turquoise and citron. However, despite the toughness of his leather jackets and sharply tailored suit jackets, it was the dresses that not only balanced the collection, but they were also the highlights of the show. They were floaty and gauzy with intricate beadwork and so fitted, that it was as though the models had glittering tattooed bodies (reminiscent of those ancient Japanese silk paintings). The overall look was Space Odyssey meets Ariel, and it was fabulous and polished. Not to take away for Julien's talent though, but dare I say it was reminiscent of Givenchy's 2011 A/W Haute Couture? Just a thought.

Au revoir NYFW!: Marc Jacobs S/S12

It was already one of the most highly anticipated shows this season, but with the rumours swirling around with regards to any possible courting from the house of Dior, Marc Jacobs' spotlight was suddenly hotter and brighter than ever, and the buzz around the show turned into a frenzy. The show was a buffet of all things shiny, sparkly, iridescent, tacky even (what is that? silver foil? lime green metallic pleather?). You'd think that it would all be a bit too much. However, true to form, designer Marc turned all of these elements into a provocative collection- think Stepford robots meets 60's Sci-fi. The silhouette was prim and proper, but the clothes were anything but. Texture and transparency were experimented with, and with the right dose of Mod-ish quirkiness and just a pinch of grungy gauche, Marc's collection sky-rockets as yet another successful showing and a perfect end to Fashion Week in New York. 

NYFW Standout: Theysken's Theory S/S12

If there ever was a collection that created the most buzz on and off the catwalk this past week, it was Oliver Theysken's S/S collection for Theysken's Theory. He has been a longstanding favourite for both fashion slaves and designers alike, and judging by his collection, it does not come as a surprise. The collection had something for everybody; from delicate separates and printed day dresses, cropped jackets, to an assortment of skirts and trousers, altogether a very chic and simple showing but with his signature flair in detail. To sum up, the collection was effortless, and in likewise fashion, the models sported loosely tousled hair and clean make-up to embody to theme. Perhaps the most wearable, appealing and accessible of all the collections shown in New York, Theyskens may have just provided us with next Spring's wardrobe de rigueur. 

NYFW Accessories: Marc by Marc Jacobs S/S12

As far as Marc is concerned, the collection was actually pretty tamed. Stripes and prints were subdued in sheer simplicity (for him), while colour took center stage. It was a Skittles frenzy, with colour clashing making a loud statement through mini-satchels, toggle bucket bags and heeled, multi-coloured high top sneakers. But in saying that, the collection was still absolutely stripped down in contrast to Marc Jacobs' previous work. As to how he'll surprise us with his next one is beyond me. What I do know, is that this coming Spring, I will be rocking orange and navy, unapologetically. 

NYFW Accessories: Pamela Love S/S12

North African Berbers and Moroccan tile work served as inspiration for Pamela Love's Spring/Summer showcase. Leather and embellishment was the winning combo. Lapis, malachite and turquoise came in hexagonal rings and triangular tile bracelets, teamed with wide leather belts, ultimately dictating the mood for the collection- globalization and the love for trinkets. Spice up your treasury with these ethnic touches and let your inner bohemian shine. 

More NYFW: Yigal Azrouel S/S12

Colour was key the Yigal Azrouel's show, with a palette boasting saturated primary hues. The silhouette was delicate and feminine with floor-sweeping hemlines, classic draping and sheer allure, yet tempered by sharply tailored tuxedo jackets.

NYFW Faves: Helmut Lang S/S12

It was a dramatic comeback for Helmut Lang after a five year hiatus from the catwalk. Manned by the Colovos husband-and-wife duo of Michael and Nicole, the collection was shown at Pier 57, on a multi-lane runway. The clothes were graphic and stark in a swatch of black, white and yellow, accentuated by the architectural platforms designed by Alejandro Ingelmo. 

NYFW Faves: Prabal Gurung S/S12

He is fast becoming a household name as one of the freshest and visually invigorating designers in the scene. As of late, we've seen his creations on actress Sarah Jessica Parker, who seems to have developed a love affair with Prabal Gurung's aesthetics and beautiful work, and it is not surprising. His designs are a breath of fresh air in a field full of predictable fashion. This season he displays a collection that is the epitome of sugar and spice.