LFW Standout: Giles Deacon S/S12

Giles Deacon took a major swan dive (pardon the pun!) with his Spring collection, into the theatrical planes of Cecil Beaton and Andy Warhol. The tone was staggeringly dramatic and flamboyant- swan-headdresses fashioned by milliner Stephen Jones took to the heads of models while they strutted down in beautiful couture dresses in chiffon, Swiss lace, duchess silk and tulle. The silhouette was streamlined and dignified- there were beautiful embroidery, laser-cut leather dresses, a cascade of ostrich feathers- all in a debonair palette of stark white, silver, blush, red and black. The Giles woman was to be a modern bright young thing, with a touch more excess. Closing the collection was a beautiful red ensemble that was evocative of the late Alexander McQueen's work.

LFW: Burberry Prorsum S/S12

The lines at Burberry Prorsum were fifties-influenced with tight knitted jumpers, cinched in waists and full, midi skirts. On paper, it was classic-nothing too outrageous, yet Christopher Bailey managed to throw us off with a knockout injection of rich, motherland flavour. Working with a lavish colour swatch of grape, aqua, teal, chartreuse and burnt sienna, it was a visual cocktail of globe-trotting aesthetics made even richer by Bailey's creative genius. There was a hint of African spice in the air; woven leather, raffia accents, mosaic appliqués and colourful jewellery complemented the geometric prints. Highlights include a cyan blue leather trench, multicoloured weekend totes, woven leather sleeved parkas, and mosaic-style embellished jumpers. 

LFW Standout: Holly Fulton S/S12

Today, the social media portals were set abuzz by Holly Fulton's traffic-stopping collection. So much so that for a good three hours, my Twitter feed read nothing but of this infamous showcase. When I finally got the chance to see it for myself online, I understood the conniption. It was bright, spunky and fun- art deco meets Gianni's legacy at Versace (that which Donatella chose evoke and pay tribute to in her Menswear SS12 and her upcoming collaboration with H&M). However, it wasn't all reference work, as Fulton's collection shows growth from her previous efforts. The prints are heavier and more dynamic without being overbearing, the colours are bolder than ever (even her monochromatic pieces look feisty!), and what she has presented shows a definitive stamp of what her style is all about. The Fulton girl is cool and hip, daring and provocative. Someone we all secretly want to be. I think it's safe to say that this Spring, to shy away from colour would be to commit a total fashion faux pas. 

LFW: Vivienne Westwood Red Label S/S12

The feel of the collection vibrated tones of ferociousness and earthy glamour, as Dame Westwood presents a collection fit for the queens of today's urban jungles. As with every other show, the grand Dame always builds her presentation around some sociological topic in order to create a collection with substance as well as style, and this Spring collection was no exception. With a rich colour swatch of earthy ochres and bright jewel hues, the tone was earthy and sauvage chic, perhaps even with a smidge of Italian Renaissance. The clothes were classic Westwood; the silhouette was deconstructed yet softened by her signature nonchalance with draping, working well with the feminine form. There were safari overtones as well as her trademark, tartan-clad androgynous power femme. Atop their heads were manes so and the make-up was bold and strong, with contoured and bronzed cheeks, while the eyes sported bright and vivid colours in turquoise, fuchsia, and emerald. Some models even had paint marks drawn on their faces, evoking a native and ethnic feel that totally complements this unrefined and organic mien. Indulge in the richness of this savage beauty. 

LFW: Julien Macdonald S/S12

The ladies at Julien Macdonald were statuesque and futuristic. Sleek silhouettes nipped at the waist set the mood, and as far as colour was concerned, it was conservative but with surprising jolts of bright jewel tones in turquoise and citron. However, despite the toughness of his leather jackets and sharply tailored suit jackets, it was the dresses that not only balanced the collection, but they were also the highlights of the show. They were floaty and gauzy with intricate beadwork and so fitted, that it was as though the models had glittering tattooed bodies (reminiscent of those ancient Japanese silk paintings). The overall look was Space Odyssey meets Ariel, and it was fabulous and polished. Not to take away for Julien's talent though, but dare I say it was reminiscent of Givenchy's 2011 A/W Haute Couture? Just a thought.