LFW: Antonio Berardi A/W12-13

The shapes at Antonio Berardi went from his usual, curve meandering bodycon lines to angular and architectural- almost very zen like. Styled with sleek, razor-sharp bobs, the models showcased stiff and structured coats, peplum-sheathed dresses and wide origami layered skirts that was reminiscent of old-school Galliano. The only difference was that Berardi's take on the aesthetic was the modernity in the lines and the minimalism. The fun came in through the striking colour palette of bright aqua, tangerine, pillar box red and chrome. Also featured is this season's trend du jour- the furry gorilla sleeves.  

LFW: Mulberry A/W12-13

For Winter '12-13, Mulberry head designer Emma Hill decided to create a collection that would be fashionable and practical for the biting cold weather. With a parade of full-on, shaggy fur coats and layers of wooly jumpers, there was not a doubt that it was the warmest and season appropriate showcase so far. The colour palette was rightfully autumnal with mustard yellows and bright oranges against a slick backdrop of black- ever the one constant all throughout the seasons. Patterns have been one of the more prominent trends this season and Mulberry did not escape the fever as we were shown zigzagging chevron-heavy cable knits and wollen skirts, while chunky scarves featured a more colourful, expressionist motif.

LFW: Temperley London A/W12-13

She described her Fall collection as inspired by the Renaissance era, and what we saw on the runway was exactly what it was. From Tudor-inspired floral embroidery to gold jacquards and full skirted dresses, the tone was that of opulence and decadence. And how else can you top that which is already extravagant? Add a big, flurry cossack to top of the look. If Doctor Zhivago ever got the remake treatment, they only have to look at Alice Temperley's Fall line for Lara's wardrobe.

LFW: House of Holland A/W12-13

For this Fall, Henry Holland decided to give a nod to the vibrancy of the 70s' affinity for the outlandsish and the height of glamour at the Tour de France. From graphic stripes and chevrons to hound's tooth patterns, the collection was made even more dizzying by the bold hues that just punctuated the features even more. There was über bright coral, electric blue, and lemon yellow- all combines in clashing mixes for maximum effect. Despite everything that was going on however, Holland kept the silhouette chic and elegant, which balanced simplicity and pizzazz beautifully.

LFW: Moschino Cheap & Chic Label A/W12-13

As it appears, London Fashion Week will play host to visiting labels and Moschino's Cheap and Chic label is one of the many exciting guests we'll see this week. Usually showcased in Milan, the label presented a very whimsical and sweet Fall collection to a very fitting audience, for out of all the fashion capitals, isn't London home to the most adventurous and playful? The show looked like a confectioner's dream with its candy-sweet colour palette. There were cotton candy shades of blue and pink against the slight tartness of tangerine and lime, while pastels provided for a muted but still dynamic canvas. Reiterating the sweetness of the hues were the ladylike tulip dresses complete with ubiquitous pearl strands, fitted bouclé jackets and quirky patchwork knitwear. Furry cossacks looked like a Jackson Pollock painting and the prints were kitschy enough to complement the collection- from powder compacts to Warhol-esque doe-eyes. I think it's safe to say that for Moschino, pink is the new black. 

LFW: Maria Grachvogel A/W12-13

The ladies at Maria Grachvogel slithered down the runway in the most fluid and seamless ensembles from the Fall collection. The silhouette was louche and effortless, with the designer's signature drapery flowing as if it was made of liquid. It evoked the Jazz Age with all that shimmer- with metallic shades of gold and green, but it was edged out with modernity by adding some more muted shades of red, navy and black in the mix for practicality. Prints also appeared on come of the pieces, breaking up the immaculacy of the collection with a shot of surrealism.

LFW Standout: Giles Deacon S/S12

Giles Deacon took a major swan dive (pardon the pun!) with his Spring collection, into the theatrical planes of Cecil Beaton and Andy Warhol. The tone was staggeringly dramatic and flamboyant- swan-headdresses fashioned by milliner Stephen Jones took to the heads of models while they strutted down in beautiful couture dresses in chiffon, Swiss lace, duchess silk and tulle. The silhouette was streamlined and dignified- there were beautiful embroidery, laser-cut leather dresses, a cascade of ostrich feathers- all in a debonair palette of stark white, silver, blush, red and black. The Giles woman was to be a modern bright young thing, with a touch more excess. Closing the collection was a beautiful red ensemble that was evocative of the late Alexander McQueen's work.

LFW: Burberry Prorsum S/S12

The lines at Burberry Prorsum were fifties-influenced with tight knitted jumpers, cinched in waists and full, midi skirts. On paper, it was classic-nothing too outrageous, yet Christopher Bailey managed to throw us off with a knockout injection of rich, motherland flavour. Working with a lavish colour swatch of grape, aqua, teal, chartreuse and burnt sienna, it was a visual cocktail of globe-trotting aesthetics made even richer by Bailey's creative genius. There was a hint of African spice in the air; woven leather, raffia accents, mosaic appliqués and colourful jewellery complemented the geometric prints. Highlights include a cyan blue leather trench, multicoloured weekend totes, woven leather sleeved parkas, and mosaic-style embellished jumpers. 

LFW Standout: Holly Fulton S/S12

Today, the social media portals were set abuzz by Holly Fulton's traffic-stopping collection. So much so that for a good three hours, my Twitter feed read nothing but of this infamous showcase. When I finally got the chance to see it for myself online, I understood the conniption. It was bright, spunky and fun- art deco meets Gianni's legacy at Versace (that which Donatella chose evoke and pay tribute to in her Menswear SS12 and her upcoming collaboration with H&M). However, it wasn't all reference work, as Fulton's collection shows growth from her previous efforts. The prints are heavier and more dynamic without being overbearing, the colours are bolder than ever (even her monochromatic pieces look feisty!), and what she has presented shows a definitive stamp of what her style is all about. The Fulton girl is cool and hip, daring and provocative. Someone we all secretly want to be. I think it's safe to say that this Spring, to shy away from colour would be to commit a total fashion faux pas. 

LFW: Vivienne Westwood Red Label S/S12

The feel of the collection vibrated tones of ferociousness and earthy glamour, as Dame Westwood presents a collection fit for the queens of today's urban jungles. As with every other show, the grand Dame always builds her presentation around some sociological topic in order to create a collection with substance as well as style, and this Spring collection was no exception. With a rich colour swatch of earthy ochres and bright jewel hues, the tone was earthy and sauvage chic, perhaps even with a smidge of Italian Renaissance. The clothes were classic Westwood; the silhouette was deconstructed yet softened by her signature nonchalance with draping, working well with the feminine form. There were safari overtones as well as her trademark, tartan-clad androgynous power femme. Atop their heads were manes so and the make-up was bold and strong, with contoured and bronzed cheeks, while the eyes sported bright and vivid colours in turquoise, fuchsia, and emerald. Some models even had paint marks drawn on their faces, evoking a native and ethnic feel that totally complements this unrefined and organic mien. Indulge in the richness of this savage beauty.