Inside The Czar's Closet: The Blazer

Outerwear is an integral part of my style blueprint. Part of the reason why I hate summer is because the weather is too hot to allow  for jackets and blazers (or maybe I'm simply just too fat that I just roast quicker than the average human being). Now that Autumn is on the horizon, my heart flutters at the thought of being able to wear my favourite wardrobe item once again- in fact my shoulders are yearning for thy shoulder pads! I got to sifting through my wardrobe yesterday to see what I can rock this season and it dawned on me that the blazer : everything else ratio is significantly unbalanced. I have nearly as many blazers as Chandler has vests.

Here are some of my favourite pieces- from 80s YSL to vintage St. Michael.

The first time I wore a blazer was when I moved to England in 2004. I guess you could say I was a late bloomer. It was by school uniform code and I've never worn them before so at first it was weird, but I grew to love the preppy feel of it. Schools in the Philippines didn't include jackets for obvious reasons of climate (unless they've changed within the last seven years or so), so it possessed a genuinely quintessential European appeal. I don't have broad shoulders and I had some serious body issues back then, so whenever I wore blazers, my shoulders were nice and square and the tailored jacket hung right that it improved my silhouette. If there was ever a time when I clung hard to a piece of clothing as an armour- a go-to article to hide flaws, create a flattering illusion and boost my self esteem, this was it. Much like the ladies finding solace in a new pair of heels or a new addition to their wide handbag collection, the blazer became my guilty pleasure. I don't really see them the way I did when I was sixteen anymore, but as far as having some great tailored pieces in my wardrobe, I just can't seem to get enough of them. They add a pinch of chic to any ensemble, and I love the flexibility and versatility it brings. Personally, I like it simple and clean in terms of structure but I like a good shoulder. When it comes to texture however, I adore luxe fabrics- my velvet ones are treasured pieces. 

Blazers! by czarventurawaldorf on Polyvore

Also if the fashion gods were willing to swing some goodwill my way, can I have this amazing Dolce and Gabbana one please?

That is all. That's not too much to ask is it?

Do you have a favourite wardrobe staple?
Love,



[image: Showstudio]

Dior Couture A/W2012

Following the news of Raf Simons' placement as the new head of design for womenswear at Christian Dior, the fashion world was left wondering as to how he would fare at the job. With John Galliano's lasting legacy with a career spanning for more than a decade, followed by Bill Gaytten's performance which left a lot to be desired, the Belgian designer who left his post at Jil Sander had great boots to fill. How was he going to merge with the Dior DNA? Well, the question was answered yesterday at his first couture showing as the house's new genius. The front row was full of industry giants which included the likes of Donatella Versace, Franca Sozzani, Alber Elbaz, Marc Jacobs, Diane von Furstenberg and Azzedine Alaia. Talk about pressure! Alongside these names, the rest of the world and the critics watched with bated breath. Simons decided to refer to Christian Dior's iconic 1947 'New Look', taking it upon himself to create his own new look for the modern woman. The waist was nipped in, and peplums flared revealing the iconic Dior silhouette. Infused with this was Simons' own minimalist touch, deviating greatly from Galliano's operatic style and Gaytten's kooky. The effect was refreshingly stark- the lines were clean, the embellishment lavish with the occasional brocade and sparkle but not overpowering; everything was made even more impactful by the fact that Raf Simons created simple but well-made couture. Not a bad way to start off what looks to be a great career with a house as esteemed as Christian Dior. Derek Blasberg tweeted 'in the last 13 minutes, Raf Simons single-handedly altered the contemporary haute couture landscape'. With Dolce and Gabbana heading into couture for the first time this month and other visionaries such as Riccardo Tisci waiting in the wings, it's hard to tell just how much impact Simons' showing has overall, but what's certain is that he has definitely made his mark. I'm looking forward to more from him.

[images: Getty]

LFW: Antonio Berardi A/W12-13

The shapes at Antonio Berardi went from his usual, curve meandering bodycon lines to angular and architectural- almost very zen like. Styled with sleek, razor-sharp bobs, the models showcased stiff and structured coats, peplum-sheathed dresses and wide origami layered skirts that was reminiscent of old-school Galliano. The only difference was that Berardi's take on the aesthetic was the modernity in the lines and the minimalism. The fun came in through the striking colour palette of bright aqua, tangerine, pillar box red and chrome. Also featured is this season's trend du jour- the furry gorilla sleeves.  

LFW: Mulberry A/W12-13

For Winter '12-13, Mulberry head designer Emma Hill decided to create a collection that would be fashionable and practical for the biting cold weather. With a parade of full-on, shaggy fur coats and layers of wooly jumpers, there was not a doubt that it was the warmest and season appropriate showcase so far. The colour palette was rightfully autumnal with mustard yellows and bright oranges against a slick backdrop of black- ever the one constant all throughout the seasons. Patterns have been one of the more prominent trends this season and Mulberry did not escape the fever as we were shown zigzagging chevron-heavy cable knits and wollen skirts, while chunky scarves featured a more colourful, expressionist motif.

LFW: Topshop Unique A/W12-13

I think there was not a soul on Twitter who was not singing praises of the Topshop Unique Fall collection shown today. With a front row packed with the likes of Poppy Delevigne, Nicola Roberts and the great Anna Wintour, the stakes were high and the label did not disappoint. Head designer Emma Farrow went for a mixture of degagé utilitarian, classic military and a play on textures. There were a wide array of choices served up, including variations on the newly vamped-up salopette, leather-trimmed wool skirts, puffy-sleeved chunky knit jumpers and jackets that looked like an aviator/worker hybrid. The accessories were also as well received as the clothes; the new It-bag will be and oversized clutch, and the killer military stiletto boots were made fanciful with its Mercurian wing feature (finally, my Classical education put to use!). Overall, the showcase offered wearable clothes that are neither boring nor too whimsical. It was straight to the point. Personally, I love that I got some Irene Cara circa Flashdance vibes. Anything that reminds me of the 80s is a given winner. 

LFW: Temperley London A/W12-13

She described her Fall collection as inspired by the Renaissance era, and what we saw on the runway was exactly what it was. From Tudor-inspired floral embroidery to gold jacquards and full skirted dresses, the tone was that of opulence and decadence. And how else can you top that which is already extravagant? Add a big, flurry cossack to top of the look. If Doctor Zhivago ever got the remake treatment, they only have to look at Alice Temperley's Fall line for Lara's wardrobe.

LFW: House of Holland A/W12-13

For this Fall, Henry Holland decided to give a nod to the vibrancy of the 70s' affinity for the outlandsish and the height of glamour at the Tour de France. From graphic stripes and chevrons to hound's tooth patterns, the collection was made even more dizzying by the bold hues that just punctuated the features even more. There was über bright coral, electric blue, and lemon yellow- all combines in clashing mixes for maximum effect. Despite everything that was going on however, Holland kept the silhouette chic and elegant, which balanced simplicity and pizzazz beautifully.

LFW: Moschino Cheap & Chic Label A/W12-13

As it appears, London Fashion Week will play host to visiting labels and Moschino's Cheap and Chic label is one of the many exciting guests we'll see this week. Usually showcased in Milan, the label presented a very whimsical and sweet Fall collection to a very fitting audience, for out of all the fashion capitals, isn't London home to the most adventurous and playful? The show looked like a confectioner's dream with its candy-sweet colour palette. There were cotton candy shades of blue and pink against the slight tartness of tangerine and lime, while pastels provided for a muted but still dynamic canvas. Reiterating the sweetness of the hues were the ladylike tulip dresses complete with ubiquitous pearl strands, fitted bouclé jackets and quirky patchwork knitwear. Furry cossacks looked like a Jackson Pollock painting and the prints were kitschy enough to complement the collection- from powder compacts to Warhol-esque doe-eyes. I think it's safe to say that for Moschino, pink is the new black.