Film Rolling: Paris 08.2011 (Volume III: Final Roll)

Film Rolling: Paris 08.11 (Volume I)

It's been a year since my maiden voyage to the city of lights and to celebrate that anniversary, I finally decided to have the film rolls I used developed. Okay that's a lie. So I've always been slightly broke whenever I thought about having it processed- but the important thing is that now that I'm a part-timer again, I can afford a trip to Boots.

The camera I used was an old Minolta SLR I picked up at a local charity shop. It came complete with the packaging and extra wide shot lens for practically nothing. I wasn't sure if the thing worked and if it hadn't, my whole Parisian break would have remained undocumented (for the most part anyway). Thankfully the camera worked out great and the shots came out beautifully. I hope you enjoy this first installment! So this set includes shots from Saint-Denis Basilique where I stayed. I should have done my homework because all that time, I was playing neighbours with the remains of Marie Antoinette!

Dior Couture A/W2012

Following the news of Raf Simons' placement as the new head of design for womenswear at Christian Dior, the fashion world was left wondering as to how he would fare at the job. With John Galliano's lasting legacy with a career spanning for more than a decade, followed by Bill Gaytten's performance which left a lot to be desired, the Belgian designer who left his post at Jil Sander had great boots to fill. How was he going to merge with the Dior DNA? Well, the question was answered yesterday at his first couture showing as the house's new genius. The front row was full of industry giants which included the likes of Donatella Versace, Franca Sozzani, Alber Elbaz, Marc Jacobs, Diane von Furstenberg and Azzedine Alaia. Talk about pressure! Alongside these names, the rest of the world and the critics watched with bated breath. Simons decided to refer to Christian Dior's iconic 1947 'New Look', taking it upon himself to create his own new look for the modern woman. The waist was nipped in, and peplums flared revealing the iconic Dior silhouette. Infused with this was Simons' own minimalist touch, deviating greatly from Galliano's operatic style and Gaytten's kooky. The effect was refreshingly stark- the lines were clean, the embellishment lavish with the occasional brocade and sparkle but not overpowering; everything was made even more impactful by the fact that Raf Simons created simple but well-made couture. Not a bad way to start off what looks to be a great career with a house as esteemed as Christian Dior. Derek Blasberg tweeted 'in the last 13 minutes, Raf Simons single-handedly altered the contemporary haute couture landscape'. With Dolce and Gabbana heading into couture for the first time this month and other visionaries such as Riccardo Tisci waiting in the wings, it's hard to tell just how much impact Simons' showing has overall, but what's certain is that he has definitely made his mark. I'm looking forward to more from him.

[images: Getty]

Paris Menswear S/S13: Ann Demeulemeester

I don't know what Ann Demeulmeester used as a reference for her SS13 collection, but I am getting some serious vampy undertones with her showcase. Beautiful swathes of silk brocade jackets, long overcoats, and velvet suits channeled a sense of gothic romanticism and whimsicality, while a touch of Orientalism through floral prints and kimono shirts added a smidge of androgyny. The look was part Lestat de Lioncourt circa 1990 and part Johnny Depp in Dark Shadows. The colours were astoundingly rich in a palette of 'bruised fruit' hues (a la Biba)- beautiful shades of aubergine, tangerine, and midnight blue. The silhouette was relaxed and cool, and though the overall look remained seductive, foppish and almost a little too-clichéd-lethario, there remained still a clear sense of sartorial masculinity through masterful tailoring and fit.  

[images: Showstudio]

Paris Menswear S/S13: The Man Sandal, Hot or Not?

Every summer season there is one item of 'fashion' that I dread to see from the catwalk and life alike. The man sandal. I don't know about you, but I never thought they were fashionable nor should they be at all. Like with all things art, clothing is subject to personal preference and for me, I have always opted for shoes. There are different kinds for different seasons, and if the heat finally gets too blistering to bear I would change into flip-flops, but that is it- I choose one or the other. Wooyoungmi's strappy pair aren't actually that bad, but the rest...? I have never been a fan of the sandals because they just strike me as an ugly hybrid borne of a want of something in between slipper and shoe, and while for ladies the sandals come in more aesthetically pleasing incarnations, the male versions just remain unattractive and totally unbecoming. Perhaps part of the reason why I find them unappealing is that, apart from models who probably get mani/pedis before a show, Joe Blogg's feet tend to be either vainly ignored or too hairy, or ultimately just not visually elegant enough to pull off public showcase. These sandals, even Givenchy's metallica pair just evoke a horrible image of the summer dad stereotype- the kind who goes with you to the beach wearing a hideous Hawaiian print shirt, cargo shorts and these sandals...with socks. I think that's a fashion crime, and whenever designers try to sell it as a must have piece of footwear I just think, 'Do people actually buy them?!', and if they do I'm just left bemused. Plus, think of how severely unflattering they are. Even the most lean of legs face the danger of looking like they have cankles. But hey, that's just me. Even though I would dread wearing them, I would choose a pair of Toms any day over these foot-harnesses. 

How do you feel about them?

Sound off below!


[images: Showstudio]

Paris Menswear S/S13: Raf Simons

And they just keep getting shorter and shorter! Newly-appointed Dior designer Raf Simons offered up an eclectic showing for his label in Paris this week, and that includes the Edward Scissorhands hairdo. The Simons DNA was apparent with his trademark crisp white shirts, his androgynous tendencies (look at these models attempt to Jolie it down the catwalk with their thigh-high slit spanky shorts), and his streamlined aesthetic. The quirk came with an unexpected fusion of an artsy flourish with louche sportswear. The multi-coloured trainers, which for some reason conjure up images of Gundams for me, were offset by whimsical prints such as a tiling of eyelet pyramids, a very 70s floral dose, and a cubist face print by artist Brian Calvin. 

[images: Showstudio]

Paris Menswear S/S13: Thierry Mugler

It seems Paris will remain infatuated with the shrunk-to-fit trend of late, as the silhouette seen so far this week has been fitted so close to the body I can't imagine how these male models manage to strut. But then again, I am no six-foot twink (haven't I said that before?). Nicola Formichetti's collection this season boasted a new sense of power dressing; the sharply tailored blazers were given a vicar collar, while his thigh-skimming shorts got a kind of reverse-mullet-effect with asymmetrical panels cascading down the sides. It's a little out there, but even so the lines were crisp and clean. The waist-long bib I thought a bit unnecessary but apart from that, I thought the clothes looked great- minimalist but with an extra oopmh.

[images: Showstudio]