LCM SS14: Top Picks from the Collections (Thus far..)

I've finally found some time to peruse over the men's collections being showcased in London, and thanks to Showstudio for their comprehensive catalogue and up-to-date reporting!  For a Spring/Summer showcase I'm pretty happy that most of the designers went for a darker tone. Definitely no Hawaiian shirts here, but you know what I mean. I'm totally not a summer baby and so I always avoid the season fully, but these collections display pieces that look almost anti-summery and for that I am delighted! Here are the collections that caught my eye, and while they not be as exciting and shocking as some (still reeling from a flamingo-induced migraine Katie Eary!), I chose them because realistically I would choose to wear most of these pieces, and they don't have that trend-y vibe. 

J.W. Anderson- Last season, the designer gave us boys in dresses. This season, I find a stronger backbone in Anderson's concept, enough edge to take him up the ranks- in the same field as someone like Yohji Yamamoto or Rei Kawakubo, and I feel like I have a better idea of him as a designer and his vision. I love the origami folds and the sinuous flow of his silhouette. He understands contrast and the power of a minimalist touch (a stark contrast to his latest offerings for Versus.) There's a sense of refinement and austerity in these pieces but it still remains explorative of the boundaries of gender and fashion. And you know he'll only get better with each season. 

Matthew Miller- What drew me to Miller's collection was the sense of freedom, practicality and reality in his aesthetic. The clothes seem comfortable, utterly chic, and just effortless. It's a silhouette that I appreciate, especially since I'm no model. Out of the lot, these are pieces that you would probably find in my wardrobe and continually shop for on the high street. This would be my idea of summer dressing.

Topman Design- I think this embroidered shirt was the most hyped thing on all my social feeds! I wasn't particularly keen on it at first but it is a grower, but just you wait until all the hipsters of the world get ahold of these. Personally, I liked the genre mix from this collection- 80's club-kid finds himself stuck in a barn dance somewhere in the American heartland. It's not something I would wear, but it's a look I'm intrigued by.

Burberry Prorsum- Christopher Bailey's collection was made even sweeter by the fact that he had chosen to bring the show back to its home in London. And what was the result? A loveletter to British heritage- classic preppy nuances, a hint of mod and that youthful surge of esprit that one can feel emanating from his clothes. All written with bright Crayola primaries which makes for a great play at colour but also sustainability. These are pieces that have the potential to be classic wardrobe staples. And even though there wasn't as much experimentation or groundbreaking innovation, I would take this collection over last season's cybernetic haul any day. 

E. Tautz- I think this collection gave me the most fun exploration of colour, texture and design. The prints are fun but measured- never giving in to the maximalist trend of seizure inducing visuals. The sheen is a little derivative from last season but all in all, E.Tautz served colour-blocking 101 in the most vibrant way. I also like the Amish touch on those hats. 

[images: Showstudio]

The Czar's Choice: Un Garçon, 100 Beards, 100 Days

You must think it absolutely random that I am writing a post on beards. I mean, I am about as smooth as they come (facially that is), and more often than not, I write blogs about beauty, womenswear and an unhealthy dose of Christina Aguilera. However that isn't to say I am completely indifferent to anything remotely masculine (my last post was about men's bottoms. Just sayin -.- ) The fact is, I like my men with a bit of facial foliage- it's sexy. It's that mix of  unkempt scruffiness and low-maintenance masculinity that has always caught my fancy.  So, when Scottish blogger Jonathan Pryce announced via Twitter that he was working on a concept- a daunting task of producing series of photographs featuring bearded folk, I kept tabs and stayed tuned. The look is very dégagé and its thriving existence within a fashion capital full of glossy, manscaped-Ollie-Locke-clones was simply too fascinating to pass up.

The 100 Beards, 100 Days project was conceived earlier this year. Sponsored by Pall Mall Barbers, the award-winning photographer began his hunt for the most fascinating beards on the 1st of July. The streets of London yielded an eclectic mix of everyday individuals who proudly sported their facial fixtures- from short beards to near-Viking length, polished to slightly grotesque, fashion versus average Joe. Known for the cool, street style photography he features on fashion blog Les Garçons des Glasgow and subsequently, on the men's style blog Another Garçon, the Glaswegian native fused his aesthetic with his bearded subjects resulting to a well-received and positively reviewed project. The theme was contemporary and the tone innovative as it features the beard as a means of self-expression and individuality.

Now his efforts come to fruition. His 100 days was up and with 100 beautiful portraits, Pryce's work was immortalised- hardbound and available for fans to purchase! Bruce Pask of The New York Times hails '100 Beards' as 'a great project, well conceived and beautifully executed', and if that weren't enough, the outpouring of appreciation and support from the fashion industry and media alike has been impressive. To celebrate the release of his new book, I decided to feature Jonathan as this month's guest blogger extraordinaire and he was kind enough to let me bug him with a few questions. Enjoy the interview!

Inside The Czar's Closet: The Blazer

Outerwear is an integral part of my style blueprint. Part of the reason why I hate summer is because the weather is too hot to allow  for jackets and blazers (or maybe I'm simply just too fat that I just roast quicker than the average human being). Now that Autumn is on the horizon, my heart flutters at the thought of being able to wear my favourite wardrobe item once again- in fact my shoulders are yearning for thy shoulder pads! I got to sifting through my wardrobe yesterday to see what I can rock this season and it dawned on me that the blazer : everything else ratio is significantly unbalanced. I have nearly as many blazers as Chandler has vests.

Here are some of my favourite pieces- from 80s YSL to vintage St. Michael.

The first time I wore a blazer was when I moved to England in 2004. I guess you could say I was a late bloomer. It was by school uniform code and I've never worn them before so at first it was weird, but I grew to love the preppy feel of it. Schools in the Philippines didn't include jackets for obvious reasons of climate (unless they've changed within the last seven years or so), so it possessed a genuinely quintessential European appeal. I don't have broad shoulders and I had some serious body issues back then, so whenever I wore blazers, my shoulders were nice and square and the tailored jacket hung right that it improved my silhouette. If there was ever a time when I clung hard to a piece of clothing as an armour- a go-to article to hide flaws, create a flattering illusion and boost my self esteem, this was it. Much like the ladies finding solace in a new pair of heels or a new addition to their wide handbag collection, the blazer became my guilty pleasure. I don't really see them the way I did when I was sixteen anymore, but as far as having some great tailored pieces in my wardrobe, I just can't seem to get enough of them. They add a pinch of chic to any ensemble, and I love the flexibility and versatility it brings. Personally, I like it simple and clean in terms of structure but I like a good shoulder. When it comes to texture however, I adore luxe fabrics- my velvet ones are treasured pieces. 

Blazers! by czarventurawaldorf on Polyvore

Also if the fashion gods were willing to swing some goodwill my way, can I have this amazing Dolce and Gabbana one please?

That is all. That's not too much to ask is it?

Do you have a favourite wardrobe staple?
Love,



[image: Showstudio]

Paris Menswear S/S13: Ann Demeulemeester

I don't know what Ann Demeulmeester used as a reference for her SS13 collection, but I am getting some serious vampy undertones with her showcase. Beautiful swathes of silk brocade jackets, long overcoats, and velvet suits channeled a sense of gothic romanticism and whimsicality, while a touch of Orientalism through floral prints and kimono shirts added a smidge of androgyny. The look was part Lestat de Lioncourt circa 1990 and part Johnny Depp in Dark Shadows. The colours were astoundingly rich in a palette of 'bruised fruit' hues (a la Biba)- beautiful shades of aubergine, tangerine, and midnight blue. The silhouette was relaxed and cool, and though the overall look remained seductive, foppish and almost a little too-clichéd-lethario, there remained still a clear sense of sartorial masculinity through masterful tailoring and fit.  

[images: Showstudio]

Paris Menswear S/S13: The Man Sandal, Hot or Not?

Every summer season there is one item of 'fashion' that I dread to see from the catwalk and life alike. The man sandal. I don't know about you, but I never thought they were fashionable nor should they be at all. Like with all things art, clothing is subject to personal preference and for me, I have always opted for shoes. There are different kinds for different seasons, and if the heat finally gets too blistering to bear I would change into flip-flops, but that is it- I choose one or the other. Wooyoungmi's strappy pair aren't actually that bad, but the rest...? I have never been a fan of the sandals because they just strike me as an ugly hybrid borne of a want of something in between slipper and shoe, and while for ladies the sandals come in more aesthetically pleasing incarnations, the male versions just remain unattractive and totally unbecoming. Perhaps part of the reason why I find them unappealing is that, apart from models who probably get mani/pedis before a show, Joe Blogg's feet tend to be either vainly ignored or too hairy, or ultimately just not visually elegant enough to pull off public showcase. These sandals, even Givenchy's metallica pair just evoke a horrible image of the summer dad stereotype- the kind who goes with you to the beach wearing a hideous Hawaiian print shirt, cargo shorts and these sandals...with socks. I think that's a fashion crime, and whenever designers try to sell it as a must have piece of footwear I just think, 'Do people actually buy them?!', and if they do I'm just left bemused. Plus, think of how severely unflattering they are. Even the most lean of legs face the danger of looking like they have cankles. But hey, that's just me. Even though I would dread wearing them, I would choose a pair of Toms any day over these foot-harnesses. 

How do you feel about them?

Sound off below!


[images: Showstudio]

Paris Menswear S/S13: Raf Simons

And they just keep getting shorter and shorter! Newly-appointed Dior designer Raf Simons offered up an eclectic showing for his label in Paris this week, and that includes the Edward Scissorhands hairdo. The Simons DNA was apparent with his trademark crisp white shirts, his androgynous tendencies (look at these models attempt to Jolie it down the catwalk with their thigh-high slit spanky shorts), and his streamlined aesthetic. The quirk came with an unexpected fusion of an artsy flourish with louche sportswear. The multi-coloured trainers, which for some reason conjure up images of Gundams for me, were offset by whimsical prints such as a tiling of eyelet pyramids, a very 70s floral dose, and a cubist face print by artist Brian Calvin. 

[images: Showstudio]

Paris Menswear S/S13: Thierry Mugler

It seems Paris will remain infatuated with the shrunk-to-fit trend of late, as the silhouette seen so far this week has been fitted so close to the body I can't imagine how these male models manage to strut. But then again, I am no six-foot twink (haven't I said that before?). Nicola Formichetti's collection this season boasted a new sense of power dressing; the sharply tailored blazers were given a vicar collar, while his thigh-skimming shorts got a kind of reverse-mullet-effect with asymmetrical panels cascading down the sides. It's a little out there, but even so the lines were crisp and clean. The waist-long bib I thought a bit unnecessary but apart from that, I thought the clothes looked great- minimalist but with an extra oopmh.

[images: Showstudio]

Milan Menswear S/S13: Versace

There was a sense of fantasy present at the Versace show- that is if you, like me, dream of beautifully beefy men gilded in Oriental opulence, kind of like a modern-day Trojan-Paris-meets-Mister-T. Again, like with her recent showings, Donatella infused some of her brother, the late Gianni's aesthetics with her own- setting an 80s cool chic undertone to her glam-rock tendencies. The colours were relatively tame considering it was mainly black and shades of bronze. However, decadent accents such as a gilded heavyweight, boxing belt (which so far probably takes the cake for accessory du jour), golden medallions and the abundant prints remind us that we don't look to Versace for minimalist fashion. My favourite pieces include the new overcoat- it's short-sleeved, loud and light which is a perfect accompaniment during the hot summer months. Also, that shimmering pair of sheer harem trousers- I need it.  

[images: Showstudio]