Milan Menswear S/S13: Versace

There was a sense of fantasy present at the Versace show- that is if you, like me, dream of beautifully beefy men gilded in Oriental opulence, kind of like a modern-day Trojan-Paris-meets-Mister-T. Again, like with her recent showings, Donatella infused some of her brother, the late Gianni's aesthetics with her own- setting an 80s cool chic undertone to her glam-rock tendencies. The colours were relatively tame considering it was mainly black and shades of bronze. However, decadent accents such as a gilded heavyweight, boxing belt (which so far probably takes the cake for accessory du jour), golden medallions and the abundant prints remind us that we don't look to Versace for minimalist fashion. My favourite pieces include the new overcoat- it's short-sleeved, loud and light which is a perfect accompaniment during the hot summer months. Also, that shimmering pair of sheer harem trousers- I need it.  

[images: Showstudio]

Milan Menswear S/S13: Burberry Prorsum

There were a lot going on at the Burberry Prorsum showcase, and I was left rather...bemused. On the one hand, I applaud Christopher Bailey's progressive vision and his constantly adventurous strides (i.e. last season's whimsical collection of animal motifs against classic Burberry DNA), however with his summer 'Come Rain or Shine' collection, I wasn't sold on the idea. While his fabulous space-age, tutti-frutti pieces look slick and cool, perfect for young fashionistas who wish to brighten up the dready grey that is the British summer, they are hardly classic nor iconic. I think Lou Stoppard's review of the show sums up my sentiments in that, "Burberry’s collections are always at their best when born from a clear and simple idea.", and unlike his past successes with famed pieces (such as the A/W10 aviator jacket, or his studded S/S11 collection), this current collection stands to suffer from looking dated hence a short wardrobe life. Needless to say, this critique does not apply to all of his clothes. Classic and well tailored suits appeared on the runway in a modish silhouette, and diamond shaped prints injected the clothes with enough whimsical touch to carry over from last season. 

[images: Wallpaper]

Milan Menswear S/S13: Jil Sander

Milan Fashion Week heralded the return of Jil Sander to her own bespoke label after a seven-year hiatus. It's sad to see Raf Simons go,   however I must say in all honesty, Jil's straight-forward aesthetic is something more akin to my own personal style. Her comeback collection featured well-tailored pieces that are simple, to the point and just well structured. Going back to basics seems to be a recurring theme this season for menswear, and though it sounds a bit weird in this case since it is her own label, Jil did well by easing her own hand back where Raf left off. The swatch were derivatives of primary shades- bright cobalt, canary yellow and deep garnet and everything in between. Prints were also kept at a relatively basic geometry. Below the waist, Jil offered a few variations for the  summer shorts, from slim fit to her take on the loose drop-crotch, which isn't my favourite cut but then again, I'm no six-foot waif. Needless to say, it was a welcome return for the label's matron and her showcase remains one of my favourites so far. It also helps that I have fallen in love with the gorgeous Nick von Heymann. Below, he's the guy on the left. Isn't he gorgeous? ^^

[images: Wallpaper]

Milan Menswear S/S13: Dolce and Gabbana

It was a family affair at Dolce and Gabbana last week- or at least, that's how it felt looking at those Sicilian boys rock the runway. Ranging from little boys to age refined men, the sun-kissed models marched down the runway looking like Don Corleone's brood. After an a couple of gilded seasons, the Italian duo decided to go back to basics which as reported, seems to have been Domenico's roots. The clothes were definitely vintage in tone, in fact the whole collection evokes a sepia-toned, old photograph from the late 30s. The silhouette was loose, relaxed and rustic, a complete opposite to what we've seen from the duo for the last two seasons. The printed shirts were fun and evocative, and when teamed with relaxed high-waisted pleated trousers, the look implies an effortless take on honest to goodness workwear. No glitterati fops allowed here! 

[images: NOWFASHION via Showstudio]

Milan Menswear S/S13: DAKS

The DAKS Gentleman proved to be an amalgamation of all things chic. For it's S/S13 collection, the palette was unusually autumnal with swathes of soft sable, bright maple orange and graphic greys and black, but nevertheless the clothes boasted a sense of late Augustan sun- the last cycle of the summer when people are finally going back to their jobs after months of solar frenzy. DAKS dictated that topless surfer boys are now out of season and in its place, a gentleman who knows how to wear a top hat. Though the silhouette is sleek and tailored to fit, the jackets were not too restraining (case in point- that puff-sleeve bolero). Prints were also kept simple with gingham, polka dots and pinstripes, enough to give the ensembles another dimension. The look was part Yves Saint Laurent, part Brad Goreski- fusing classic style with modernity that is also wearable and not too austere. Although I must say, look at that show-stopping white ensemble! Talk about suave. 

[images: NOWFASHION via Showstudio]