PFW: Iris van Herpen Haute Couture SS'13

The collection at Iris van Herpen was definitely a showstopper- a summation of what haute couture really is and what it should be; full of fantasy and high concept.  Here we see a sophisticated collision of subtlety and the abstract, yet another wonderful interpretation of the modern woman- tough and sweet, strong yet made of flesh. The concept is said to be an exploration of the electricity of the body, and the pieces aimed to convey a sense of tangibile force. Despite my initial giggle due to the sea urchin parallels, I grew to love the juxtaposition of such steely hardware and the burlesque flash of decolleté- but nothing too distasteful of course. The futuristic blend of near-aquatic elements and a feel for armoury by way of steely spikes, razor-sharp laser cut patterns and severe angles, against a stark palette of black and white worked well in creating a burst of primordial force in 3D. This is fashion and intellect at its best.

[images: Showstudio]

PFW: Chanel Haute Couture S/S'13

The Kaiser created a mini forest inside the Grand Palais for his Spring Haute Couture showcase, and the models came out looking like birds from the Snow Queen's gardens. Adorned with feathery fascinators and a Kubrick-esque smoky eye, the Chanel girls glided down the runway in beautiful demure dresses in ethereal white, navy and black- classic and chic but not so austere thanks to an interlude of romantic floral accents. Classic Chanel elements were present; the LBD, camelias, tweed bouclés, and clean lines topped off by incredibly chic (there's no other word for it!) thigh high boots in lace and starlight silver leather. Finishing off the collection was the parade of snowy bridal dresses trimmed with a cloud of feathers, lace and pearl beading. Lagerfeld's silhouette was as willowy as ever with closed shoulders and closely fitted skirts, save for a couple of billowing chiffon dresses- which only emphasised the elegant, birdlike feel of the collection.

  

[images: Showstudio]

NYFW S/S'13: Jason Wu

Clouds of tulle, layers of lace and seductively sheer chiffon were sprinkled with sparkling sequins, decorated with wispy floral prints, trimmed with lacquer-glossy leather and punched with metal stud accents. It was the perfect combination of modern romance, glamour and wearable chic- even a touch of S&M. The timeless dichotomy of soft and tough was amped up at Jason Wu's S/S'13 collection, but then again, it is this exact aesthetic that has singled Wu out as of the best current designers for the modern woman. He's always been one of my favourites, not just because his work is often evocative of old school glamour, but mostly because his clothes represent a great understanding of  what women look good in. Therefore it's no surprise that though relatively new to the scene, Jason Wu is poised to dress for many, many years. Also, how awesome was it seeing supermodel Carolyn Murphy back on the runway? Score! 

[Images: Showstudio.com]

Paris Menswear S/S13: Ann Demeulemeester

I don't know what Ann Demeulmeester used as a reference for her SS13 collection, but I am getting some serious vampy undertones with her showcase. Beautiful swathes of silk brocade jackets, long overcoats, and velvet suits channeled a sense of gothic romanticism and whimsicality, while a touch of Orientalism through floral prints and kimono shirts added a smidge of androgyny. The look was part Lestat de Lioncourt circa 1990 and part Johnny Depp in Dark Shadows. The colours were astoundingly rich in a palette of 'bruised fruit' hues (a la Biba)- beautiful shades of aubergine, tangerine, and midnight blue. The silhouette was relaxed and cool, and though the overall look remained seductive, foppish and almost a little too-clichéd-lethario, there remained still a clear sense of sartorial masculinity through masterful tailoring and fit.  

[images: Showstudio]

Paris Menswear S/S13: The Man Sandal, Hot or Not?

Every summer season there is one item of 'fashion' that I dread to see from the catwalk and life alike. The man sandal. I don't know about you, but I never thought they were fashionable nor should they be at all. Like with all things art, clothing is subject to personal preference and for me, I have always opted for shoes. There are different kinds for different seasons, and if the heat finally gets too blistering to bear I would change into flip-flops, but that is it- I choose one or the other. Wooyoungmi's strappy pair aren't actually that bad, but the rest...? I have never been a fan of the sandals because they just strike me as an ugly hybrid borne of a want of something in between slipper and shoe, and while for ladies the sandals come in more aesthetically pleasing incarnations, the male versions just remain unattractive and totally unbecoming. Perhaps part of the reason why I find them unappealing is that, apart from models who probably get mani/pedis before a show, Joe Blogg's feet tend to be either vainly ignored or too hairy, or ultimately just not visually elegant enough to pull off public showcase. These sandals, even Givenchy's metallica pair just evoke a horrible image of the summer dad stereotype- the kind who goes with you to the beach wearing a hideous Hawaiian print shirt, cargo shorts and these sandals...with socks. I think that's a fashion crime, and whenever designers try to sell it as a must have piece of footwear I just think, 'Do people actually buy them?!', and if they do I'm just left bemused. Plus, think of how severely unflattering they are. Even the most lean of legs face the danger of looking like they have cankles. But hey, that's just me. Even though I would dread wearing them, I would choose a pair of Toms any day over these foot-harnesses. 

How do you feel about them?

Sound off below!


[images: Showstudio]

Paris Menswear S/S13: Raf Simons

And they just keep getting shorter and shorter! Newly-appointed Dior designer Raf Simons offered up an eclectic showing for his label in Paris this week, and that includes the Edward Scissorhands hairdo. The Simons DNA was apparent with his trademark crisp white shirts, his androgynous tendencies (look at these models attempt to Jolie it down the catwalk with their thigh-high slit spanky shorts), and his streamlined aesthetic. The quirk came with an unexpected fusion of an artsy flourish with louche sportswear. The multi-coloured trainers, which for some reason conjure up images of Gundams for me, were offset by whimsical prints such as a tiling of eyelet pyramids, a very 70s floral dose, and a cubist face print by artist Brian Calvin. 

[images: Showstudio]

Paris Menswear S/S13: Thierry Mugler

It seems Paris will remain infatuated with the shrunk-to-fit trend of late, as the silhouette seen so far this week has been fitted so close to the body I can't imagine how these male models manage to strut. But then again, I am no six-foot twink (haven't I said that before?). Nicola Formichetti's collection this season boasted a new sense of power dressing; the sharply tailored blazers were given a vicar collar, while his thigh-skimming shorts got a kind of reverse-mullet-effect with asymmetrical panels cascading down the sides. It's a little out there, but even so the lines were crisp and clean. The waist-long bib I thought a bit unnecessary but apart from that, I thought the clothes looked great- minimalist but with an extra oopmh.

[images: Showstudio]

Milan Menswear S/S13: Versace

There was a sense of fantasy present at the Versace show- that is if you, like me, dream of beautifully beefy men gilded in Oriental opulence, kind of like a modern-day Trojan-Paris-meets-Mister-T. Again, like with her recent showings, Donatella infused some of her brother, the late Gianni's aesthetics with her own- setting an 80s cool chic undertone to her glam-rock tendencies. The colours were relatively tame considering it was mainly black and shades of bronze. However, decadent accents such as a gilded heavyweight, boxing belt (which so far probably takes the cake for accessory du jour), golden medallions and the abundant prints remind us that we don't look to Versace for minimalist fashion. My favourite pieces include the new overcoat- it's short-sleeved, loud and light which is a perfect accompaniment during the hot summer months. Also, that shimmering pair of sheer harem trousers- I need it.  

[images: Showstudio]