The Czar's Annual Christmas Wishlist!

Jimmy Choo's Nicole Kidman Ads Have Arrived! The Verdict?

When it was announced that Nicole Kidman was to be the new face of Jimmy Choo, the first thought that crossed my mind was, 'Woop! She can wear heels again!'. Of course this was in relation to the fact that the whole time she was married to Tom Cruise, she never wore heels that towered her crazy ex-hubby. Then I thought, hang on a second- what will the ads look like? The last couple of years have seen Victoria's Secret-esque ads from Jimmy Choo, and although I am fully aware that Nic is capable of sexy- anything close to fetish isn't a good colour on her (remember that GQ 2009 cover? Eeek.)

MET Gala 2013: Punk: Chaos to Couture (The Best, The Bad, Beyonce and KimYe)

When I saw the pictures via Twitter early this morning, all I kept thinking was, 'this is the best couture punk these celebs could conjure up?' We all know what a big deal the MET Gala is in the fashion world; it's the Oscars of the industry. The best of the best are invited (barring any Kardashian of course, but somehow she manages to merit a ticket) and dressed by the cream of the couture elite. This year celebrates the Punk Movement, and the sustained effect it has on climate of fashion today. The exhibit features pieces from prominent designers such as Riccardo Tisci, John Galliano, Christopher Bailey, Yohji Yamamoto among others, and focused dedications to the 'heroes' of punk like, for example- the Grand Dame of it all, Vivienne Westwood. 

source: Glamour.com

source: Glamour.com

Metal spikes, severe aesthetics (safety-pinned trash bag dresses anyone?), and a lot of bright shocking colours evoke an immediate image of the 60s punk- but, somehow, even the easiest stereotype didn't translate to the attendees. Blondie? Patti Smith? Granted, there were some who took the spirit of punk, that rebelliousness and angst and created wonderfully modern and inspiring ensembles, but some wore it on their sleeves and stayed a little too on-the-nose. There were the few who came to the wrong party. Then there was KimYe. And then there was Beyonce. For a celebration of democracy and sticking-it to the fashion man, there were a lot more sheep (GIVENCHY.) on that carpet last night than liberated individuals. I seem to hear Simon Doonan's rants on that episode of Top Model...

I've made my rankings, so take a look and see if you agree. There are a couple of great surprises and a couple of WTFs, but I'll leave you to make up your own mind. Hope you enjoy my list!

THE BEST 

(in no particular order!)

Sienna Miller, Coco Rocha in Ungaro, Sarah Jessica Parker in Giles Deacon and Philip Treacey

Anne Hathaway (a.k.a Bridgette Nielsen..) in Valentino, Florence Welch in Givenchy Haute Couture,  Christina Ricci in Vivienne Westwood (A+++)

NYFW A/W'13: Oscar de la Renta

Easily the most talked about show over at New York Fashion Week, the Oscar de la Renta collection proved to be one of, if not the major event on the roster. This was because of two reasons; one- it was a celebration of de la Renta's 50 years in the industry and two- it marked the long-awaited return of prolific designer John Galliano. It has been two years since the ex-Dior genius was ostracised and shamed for his misconduct, but it has also been two years that fashion lacked one of it's greatest artists. Now, seemingly given an olive branch, the house of de la Renta has offered Galliano a temporary residency for two years, and this collection leads the way for his return. Now, was it a success? 

With a house packed with the cream of New York, Fashion and Blogging society, one can only assume that the world was either waiting on a momentous event or a failure to return to form. Long time Galliano supporters have urged for him to come back, and many of his contemporaries showed up to satiate their curiosity over this interesting pas de deux- Valentino Garavani and Diane von Furstenberg were on the front row. It was undeniable that Galliano's aesthetic had meshed well enough to make the de la Renta collection his own. Or rather, influenced by him. Signature pieces such as draped bar jackets which were similar to what he gave Dior were present, his penchant over the cloche, and his flair for the dramatics with fluid floor-skimming dresses and bold colour choices, evoking the highlights of his career. Expensive suits and that fifth-avenue class vibe that de la Renta is known for comes off as a strong canvas from which Galliano picks up and runs away with- creating pieces that scream Paris, but not too haute or introverted that New York or the atelier is alienated, or disrespected.  Needless to say, it was a combination that seem to work well and was met with resounding success. The only question now is, will he be asked to stay?

The only disappointment that came with the show was Galliano's absence at the finale. Blogger BryanBoy did however report that the designer himself was in fact backstage. Be that is may, it was probably the best choice for him. His talents have been greatly missed, and despite the controversy that will now tail him for the rest of his life, one cannot deny that fashion needs John. Personally,  I think congratulations are definitely in order. 

[images: Showstudio]

PFW: Iris van Herpen Haute Couture SS'13

The collection at Iris van Herpen was definitely a showstopper- a summation of what haute couture really is and what it should be; full of fantasy and high concept.  Here we see a sophisticated collision of subtlety and the abstract, yet another wonderful interpretation of the modern woman- tough and sweet, strong yet made of flesh. The concept is said to be an exploration of the electricity of the body, and the pieces aimed to convey a sense of tangibile force. Despite my initial giggle due to the sea urchin parallels, I grew to love the juxtaposition of such steely hardware and the burlesque flash of decolleté- but nothing too distasteful of course. The futuristic blend of near-aquatic elements and a feel for armoury by way of steely spikes, razor-sharp laser cut patterns and severe angles, against a stark palette of black and white worked well in creating a burst of primordial force in 3D. This is fashion and intellect at its best.

[images: Showstudio]

Tim Walker: Storyteller

For my first post of the new year, I have decided to feature the genius talent that is Tim Walker. 2012 saw numerous great exhibits across London's cultural sphere, and yet I only managed to see one. It's shameful, I know, but living far away from the center and suffering from a heavy bout of final year stress did not allow time for much recreation and leisure. Although saying that, I did actually go to Paris this time last year instead of writing my dissertation. Oops! However, I plan on changing that now that I am done with school. Plus it's the year of the Snake! It's my year, therefore I should savour everything that will come within the next twelve months.

Showing in the East Wing Gallery of Somerset House and supported by fashion house Mulberry, Storyteller features a selection of photographs Walker had created for the pages of Vogue, Elle, and W Magazine among others. And his muses? Well, they range from supermodels, to fashion editors and celebrated actors. Among these familiar faces include Walker favourites Stella Tennant, Guinevere van Seenus, Kristen McMenamy to the late Anna Piaggi, Tilda Swinton, and the late Alexander McQueen. Walker is known for his vivid way of storytelling (hence, the title) through lavish compositions and creative ideas, and his vision of beauty and the divine can turn a lacklustre editorial into a work of art. Yes, I am saying that he can turn water into wine! From fairytale fancies to visceral imagery, striking portraits to dark compositions of nightmarish beauty, Walker's exhibit at Somerset House chronicles the man's rich sense of humour and the surreal. Together with hanging images are installations that include a grotesque Baby Jane-esque doll of gigantic proportions, a lavish swan-drawn carriage and ventriloquist dolls.Here are some of my personal favourites from the collection.

Stella Tennant, Vogue Italia, August 2011

The Czar's Choice: 2012's Best Vogue Covers

Starting off my Best of 2012 posts is my picks for the best Vogue covers of the year. Now, some of these may not be your picks but my taste does vary from time to time. This year for me was all about a new kind of romanticism- a variably more indulgent kind but one with more modernity and edge. Just take a look at Joan Smalls' cover for Vogue Australia and Keira Knightley's for US! Speaking of the latter, Knightley's cover is the only one from Miss Wintour's roster to make my list because quite frankly, the rest of the US Vogue covers were bland. With the exception of Knightley and the sonically divine Lana del Rey, Wintour's use of actresses for her covers- though great for pulling in the dollas, has become tired and boring. This selection celebrates the rise of the model as the coverstar once more, with Moss, Kloss and Smalls leading the pack. This one below with Daphne is probably my favourite from the bunch, with its dark, luscious gothic beauty. Enjoy!

Daphne Groenveld, Vogue Russia, April 2012 (Hedi Slimane)

Lara Stone, Vogue Brasil, October 2012 (Mario Testino)

Adriana Lima, Vogue Brasil, February 2012 (André Passos)

Fleur Kelinza

There are a lot of good things to look forward to in the New Year, and for this London-based designer 2013 holds many a great opportunity and success. Fleur Kelinza, a Ghana-born designer launched her brand in 2007 after switching from finance to fashion. This year has seen the designer become one of fashion's rising stars, after showcasing at the Malta and Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week earlier this year and a subsequent feature in Vogue Italia. If that isn't a promising anointment in the field of pret-a-porter fashion, I don't know what is. The ever forward and alert power-blogger Leroy Dawkins of The Diary of a Clotheshorse featured the designer on his blog recently and also shared Kelinza's lookbook with me and it's safe to say I was very excited by it. Cocktail dresses made of silk, lace, delicate organza and feathers dominated the collection and these are features that I love to look for in couture. Some pieces are even evocative of Valentino and Lanvin, which only shows Kelinza's exquisite aesthetic and taste. Check out some of my favourite pieces from her SS'13 collection. 

Christmas Spoils!

A few bits from this year's Christmas haul! Navy Flecked Jumper from Primark, Alexander McQueen: Savage Beauty by Andrew Bolton, Fleur de Cerise box of treats from L'Occitane de Provence and the Real Techniques Core Brush Set by Pixiwoo's Samantha Chapman. Je suis une happy bunny! xo

I'm Sending A Letter (Link) to Santa!

Dear Santa, 

Here's my grown up Christmas list and I don't think I'm asking too much. I've been good this year!

The bitching has been kept at a minimum and I've been doing good deeds at least once a week and I have been watching you on Christmas24 since November. I'm pretty sure that should put me back on your list.

Clockwise: Uniform Wares 300 Series Chronograph Wristwatch, Alexander McQueen Needlepoint Slippers, Bette Davis 100th Anniversary Collection, KitchenAid Electric Mixer, Game Of Thrones Season 1 Boxset, Linda Farrow for Alexander Wang, Bobbi Brown Caviar and Oyster Travel Brush Set, Bobbi Brown BBU Palette, Alexander Wang Tote, The Little Black Jacket by Karl Lagerfeld and Carine Roitfeld, Irreverent by Carine Roitfeld, Grace, A Memoir by Grace Coddington, Chanel Coco Noir Eau de Parfum... and NOAH MILLS (preferably like THAT) 

As for the second list...well, that's only if you're feeling extra generous this year. 

You haven't been for the last seven years but gotta ask to receive....right? RIGHT!?

Chanel Boy Bag, A set of Louis Vuitton Luggage, and an audience with the great Mao Asada (perhaps by way of a ticket and a VIP pass to the 2013 World Championships, or if she makes it, to the Sochi Winter Games) and my ultimate diva- Christina Aguilera. A tweet, a tour, a personal lap dance complete with ass less chaps...whatever! I need me some XTINAAA!

Lots of Love,

The Czar's Choice: Un Garçon, 100 Beards, 100 Days

You must think it absolutely random that I am writing a post on beards. I mean, I am about as smooth as they come (facially that is), and more often than not, I write blogs about beauty, womenswear and an unhealthy dose of Christina Aguilera. However that isn't to say I am completely indifferent to anything remotely masculine (my last post was about men's bottoms. Just sayin -.- ) The fact is, I like my men with a bit of facial foliage- it's sexy. It's that mix of  unkempt scruffiness and low-maintenance masculinity that has always caught my fancy.  So, when Scottish blogger Jonathan Pryce announced via Twitter that he was working on a concept- a daunting task of producing series of photographs featuring bearded folk, I kept tabs and stayed tuned. The look is very dégagé and its thriving existence within a fashion capital full of glossy, manscaped-Ollie-Locke-clones was simply too fascinating to pass up.

The 100 Beards, 100 Days project was conceived earlier this year. Sponsored by Pall Mall Barbers, the award-winning photographer began his hunt for the most fascinating beards on the 1st of July. The streets of London yielded an eclectic mix of everyday individuals who proudly sported their facial fixtures- from short beards to near-Viking length, polished to slightly grotesque, fashion versus average Joe. Known for the cool, street style photography he features on fashion blog Les Garçons des Glasgow and subsequently, on the men's style blog Another Garçon, the Glaswegian native fused his aesthetic with his bearded subjects resulting to a well-received and positively reviewed project. The theme was contemporary and the tone innovative as it features the beard as a means of self-expression and individuality.

Now his efforts come to fruition. His 100 days was up and with 100 beautiful portraits, Pryce's work was immortalised- hardbound and available for fans to purchase! Bruce Pask of The New York Times hails '100 Beards' as 'a great project, well conceived and beautifully executed', and if that weren't enough, the outpouring of appreciation and support from the fashion industry and media alike has been impressive. To celebrate the release of his new book, I decided to feature Jonathan as this month's guest blogger extraordinaire and he was kind enough to let me bug him with a few questions. Enjoy the interview!

Style Notes: Christina Aguilera at the ALMA Awards 2012

Christina Aguilera with Bullseye

Last night, the Latin-American community celebrated the victories and successes of their finest athletes and artists at the ALMA Awards in Pasadena, California. Honoree Christina Aguilera was given a tribute for her extraordinary career in the music industry and was given an award for her efforts as an ambassador for the United Nations World Food Programme, with whom she has been raising awareness on world hunger since 2009. For the momentous occasion, the five-time Grammy winner dressed to impress with a curve-hugging black Michael Kors dress with lace panels and a thigh-high slit. However, do we ever expect Xtina to just stick to the letter? Of course not! She accessorised with a cascade of Neil Lane jewellery, a bejewelled Judith Leiber clutch and sky high Christian Louboutin heels. Since the evening paid a tribute to her career, the singer also paid homage to her life-long love for coloured hair extensions, adding a purple and pink ponytail to her demure ensemble. It has been reported that Aguilera received a full, standing ovation last night and it doesn't surprise me one bit. This girl is utterly, and undoubtedly iconic.  

Have you bought 'Your Body' on iTunes yet? Click, click, click!



[Images: Getty]

NYFW S/S'13: Jason Wu

Clouds of tulle, layers of lace and seductively sheer chiffon were sprinkled with sparkling sequins, decorated with wispy floral prints, trimmed with lacquer-glossy leather and punched with metal stud accents. It was the perfect combination of modern romance, glamour and wearable chic- even a touch of S&M. The timeless dichotomy of soft and tough was amped up at Jason Wu's S/S'13 collection, but then again, it is this exact aesthetic that has singled Wu out as of the best current designers for the modern woman. He's always been one of my favourites, not just because his work is often evocative of old school glamour, but mostly because his clothes represent a great understanding of  what women look good in. Therefore it's no surprise that though relatively new to the scene, Jason Wu is poised to dress for many, many years. Also, how awesome was it seeing supermodel Carolyn Murphy back on the runway? Score! 

[Images: Showstudio.com]

Inside The Czar's Closet: The Blazer

Outerwear is an integral part of my style blueprint. Part of the reason why I hate summer is because the weather is too hot to allow  for jackets and blazers (or maybe I'm simply just too fat that I just roast quicker than the average human being). Now that Autumn is on the horizon, my heart flutters at the thought of being able to wear my favourite wardrobe item once again- in fact my shoulders are yearning for thy shoulder pads! I got to sifting through my wardrobe yesterday to see what I can rock this season and it dawned on me that the blazer : everything else ratio is significantly unbalanced. I have nearly as many blazers as Chandler has vests.

Here are some of my favourite pieces- from 80s YSL to vintage St. Michael.

The first time I wore a blazer was when I moved to England in 2004. I guess you could say I was a late bloomer. It was by school uniform code and I've never worn them before so at first it was weird, but I grew to love the preppy feel of it. Schools in the Philippines didn't include jackets for obvious reasons of climate (unless they've changed within the last seven years or so), so it possessed a genuinely quintessential European appeal. I don't have broad shoulders and I had some serious body issues back then, so whenever I wore blazers, my shoulders were nice and square and the tailored jacket hung right that it improved my silhouette. If there was ever a time when I clung hard to a piece of clothing as an armour- a go-to article to hide flaws, create a flattering illusion and boost my self esteem, this was it. Much like the ladies finding solace in a new pair of heels or a new addition to their wide handbag collection, the blazer became my guilty pleasure. I don't really see them the way I did when I was sixteen anymore, but as far as having some great tailored pieces in my wardrobe, I just can't seem to get enough of them. They add a pinch of chic to any ensemble, and I love the flexibility and versatility it brings. Personally, I like it simple and clean in terms of structure but I like a good shoulder. When it comes to texture however, I adore luxe fabrics- my velvet ones are treasured pieces. 

Blazers! by czarventurawaldorf on Polyvore

Also if the fashion gods were willing to swing some goodwill my way, can I have this amazing Dolce and Gabbana one please?

That is all. That's not too much to ask is it?

Do you have a favourite wardrobe staple?
Love,



[image: Showstudio]

Trends that need to GO.

One of the great things about working in retail (for the time being) is that I get to see all the trends come to life. People pass through day in and day out, looking like they have referenced, studied and executed to a T, trends that have filtered down from the runways and into the high street stores. However, when the homogenisation comes to a crescendo and everywhere you turn people have started to look like faceless carbon copies of one another (like an eerie version of Stepford Wives, only you see more butt cheeks than teased bee-hives) you just know that it has to stop. Thankfully, the new season is just around the corner and everyone gets a clean slate for their autumn/winter wardrobes. Here are just some of the few trends that I feel have gone on for far too long, and are now ready to retire- if not forcefully erased from human memory. 

The Ass-baring Booty Shorts- This comes up on the top of the list simply because. There are shorts, then micro shorts which by all standards are not that offensive to my retina. However, if you are under 16 and sporting what looks like an American Apparel pair of butt-cheek-baring shorts (or actually some try out a pair of re-done, high-waisted mom jeans that are equally uncool), please stop. They are ill-fitting especially if you a bit too big to be letting your booty hang like saddlebags. Let's be honest here- they do not look good on anyone unless your ass can defy gravity and you much like the look of le camel-toe, but more importantly, it's just too uncomfortable to look at. Burn the damn thing and buy yourself a pair of actual pants.  

Crayola Chinos paired with Y-Neck Tees- If somebody had told me a couple of years ago that chinos will be making a comeback in a much more gayer incarnation, I would have laughed in his face. Fast forward to 2012 and cue the boys of One Direction... and pouf! Out from the closets of Topman and the like came the crayon box chino parade. The streets of England became dotted with bright, rainbow coloured trousers that look like it should have stayed in the catalogues of OshKosh and Baby Gap, especially with those hideous Y-Neck, fluoro lined T-shirts. It was fun during the summer, and admittedly I did want a nice mustard coloured pair, but enough is enough. They are neither smart nor chic. Unless you are a thirteen year-old pre-pubescent boy, please move on to the men's section and pick out something else. 

Drop Crotch Pants- Two words; Nappy Boy. Nuff said.

Tatty Hair- Get a brush. Top buns, although they promote lazy grooming habits, I can deal with but this? Since when did it become okay to look like you are housing birds for the National Trust? Or worse, your hair looks like a bad wig that has been played with and gnawed at by fighting kittens. 

Espadrilles- I applaud TOMS for their great charity work with children, however on the basis of style- it is in my personal opinion that there are simply better shoes than espadrilles. I'm not really too keen on the look of them, and when you get to a point where even a market stall in Skegness carry a wide stock of knock-offs for the masses, you should know it's time to ditch them. What's wrong with a classic pair of Chuck Taylors? 

Floral Kitsch- Too many flowers nauseate me, but you insist on carrying bags or wearing dresses that look like curtains and tablecloths- be my guest. At least you know whoever's making the dress has seen The Sound of Music, or at the very least- Enchanted.

Faux-Americana- Since when has Britain become totally pro-US? The Olympics just finished and with the Paralympics still on the roster you'd think we'd be a bit more Britannia loving patriots. Did you not see our Queen jump from a chopper? If that doesn't make you want to wear more Union Jacks I don't know what will. Sadly, most high street stores still sell these Americana, star-spangled apparel (even in disgusting jegging form) and it just looks so...faux. On the plus side, if you are not blessed with thighs like Giselle Bundchen's your ass will most likely look like a flag rolling and rippling with stars and stripes. Wave em high!

What do you think?