NYFW A/W'13: Oscar de la Renta

Easily the most talked about show over at New York Fashion Week, the Oscar de la Renta collection proved to be one of, if not the major event on the roster. This was because of two reasons; one- it was a celebration of de la Renta's 50 years in the industry and two- it marked the long-awaited return of prolific designer John Galliano. It has been two years since the ex-Dior genius was ostracised and shamed for his misconduct, but it has also been two years that fashion lacked one of it's greatest artists. Now, seemingly given an olive branch, the house of de la Renta has offered Galliano a temporary residency for two years, and this collection leads the way for his return. Now, was it a success? 

With a house packed with the cream of New York, Fashion and Blogging society, one can only assume that the world was either waiting on a momentous event or a failure to return to form. Long time Galliano supporters have urged for him to come back, and many of his contemporaries showed up to satiate their curiosity over this interesting pas de deux- Valentino Garavani and Diane von Furstenberg were on the front row. It was undeniable that Galliano's aesthetic had meshed well enough to make the de la Renta collection his own. Or rather, influenced by him. Signature pieces such as draped bar jackets which were similar to what he gave Dior were present, his penchant over the cloche, and his flair for the dramatics with fluid floor-skimming dresses and bold colour choices, evoking the highlights of his career. Expensive suits and that fifth-avenue class vibe that de la Renta is known for comes off as a strong canvas from which Galliano picks up and runs away with- creating pieces that scream Paris, but not too haute or introverted that New York or the atelier is alienated, or disrespected.  Needless to say, it was a combination that seem to work well and was met with resounding success. The only question now is, will he be asked to stay?

The only disappointment that came with the show was Galliano's absence at the finale. Blogger BryanBoy did however report that the designer himself was in fact backstage. Be that is may, it was probably the best choice for him. His talents have been greatly missed, and despite the controversy that will now tail him for the rest of his life, one cannot deny that fashion needs John. Personally,  I think congratulations are definitely in order. 

[images: Showstudio]

Fleur Kelinza

There are a lot of good things to look forward to in the New Year, and for this London-based designer 2013 holds many a great opportunity and success. Fleur Kelinza, a Ghana-born designer launched her brand in 2007 after switching from finance to fashion. This year has seen the designer become one of fashion's rising stars, after showcasing at the Malta and Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week earlier this year and a subsequent feature in Vogue Italia. If that isn't a promising anointment in the field of pret-a-porter fashion, I don't know what is. The ever forward and alert power-blogger Leroy Dawkins of The Diary of a Clotheshorse featured the designer on his blog recently and also shared Kelinza's lookbook with me and it's safe to say I was very excited by it. Cocktail dresses made of silk, lace, delicate organza and feathers dominated the collection and these are features that I love to look for in couture. Some pieces are even evocative of Valentino and Lanvin, which only shows Kelinza's exquisite aesthetic and taste. Check out some of my favourite pieces from her SS'13 collection. 

LFW: Antonio Berardi A/W12-13

The shapes at Antonio Berardi went from his usual, curve meandering bodycon lines to angular and architectural- almost very zen like. Styled with sleek, razor-sharp bobs, the models showcased stiff and structured coats, peplum-sheathed dresses and wide origami layered skirts that was reminiscent of old-school Galliano. The only difference was that Berardi's take on the aesthetic was the modernity in the lines and the minimalism. The fun came in through the striking colour palette of bright aqua, tangerine, pillar box red and chrome. Also featured is this season's trend du jour- the furry gorilla sleeves.  

LFW: Temperley London A/W12-13

She described her Fall collection as inspired by the Renaissance era, and what we saw on the runway was exactly what it was. From Tudor-inspired floral embroidery to gold jacquards and full skirted dresses, the tone was that of opulence and decadence. And how else can you top that which is already extravagant? Add a big, flurry cossack to top of the look. If Doctor Zhivago ever got the remake treatment, they only have to look at Alice Temperley's Fall line for Lara's wardrobe.

LFW: House of Holland A/W12-13

For this Fall, Henry Holland decided to give a nod to the vibrancy of the 70s' affinity for the outlandsish and the height of glamour at the Tour de France. From graphic stripes and chevrons to hound's tooth patterns, the collection was made even more dizzying by the bold hues that just punctuated the features even more. There was über bright coral, electric blue, and lemon yellow- all combines in clashing mixes for maximum effect. Despite everything that was going on however, Holland kept the silhouette chic and elegant, which balanced simplicity and pizzazz beautifully.

LFW: Moschino Cheap & Chic Label A/W12-13

As it appears, London Fashion Week will play host to visiting labels and Moschino's Cheap and Chic label is one of the many exciting guests we'll see this week. Usually showcased in Milan, the label presented a very whimsical and sweet Fall collection to a very fitting audience, for out of all the fashion capitals, isn't London home to the most adventurous and playful? The show looked like a confectioner's dream with its candy-sweet colour palette. There were cotton candy shades of blue and pink against the slight tartness of tangerine and lime, while pastels provided for a muted but still dynamic canvas. Reiterating the sweetness of the hues were the ladylike tulip dresses complete with ubiquitous pearl strands, fitted bouclé jackets and quirky patchwork knitwear. Furry cossacks looked like a Jackson Pollock painting and the prints were kitschy enough to complement the collection- from powder compacts to Warhol-esque doe-eyes. I think it's safe to say that for Moschino, pink is the new black. 

LFW: Maria Grachvogel A/W12-13

The ladies at Maria Grachvogel slithered down the runway in the most fluid and seamless ensembles from the Fall collection. The silhouette was louche and effortless, with the designer's signature drapery flowing as if it was made of liquid. It evoked the Jazz Age with all that shimmer- with metallic shades of gold and green, but it was edged out with modernity by adding some more muted shades of red, navy and black in the mix for practicality. Prints also appeared on come of the pieces, breaking up the immaculacy of the collection with a shot of surrealism.

NYFW: Victoria Beckham A/W12-13

Victoria Beckham continues in her success, taking stride after stride in the industry, establishing her name as a legitimate fashion label and not just an overnight success. For the past few seasons now, the WAG-turned designer has been wowing us with beautiful clothes that are both highly chic and wearable for the modern woman, and with her latest Fall showing, she nails it once again. Living in the US has definitely influenced the lady's aesthetic as she incorporates various American elements in her aesthetic while fusing it with her own brand of Continental glamour. The clothes were fitted and streamlined, but there were urbane elements to it; a pinch of American preppy, military touches and metropolitan smoothness that begs applause after applause for its sheer simplicity, practicality and sustainability. The colour swatch was sensible and utilitarian with black, khakis, and reds, perfect for her cosmopolitan audience- though perhaps a little too restricting with the lack of choice in garments. The whole collection mainly comprised of minimalistic dresses- from trademark serpentine pencil skirts to fun skater A-lines, they were plain but classic. Accents came in via geometric block stripes and a play on textures with leather lined coats and belts, toughening what could have been a rather indifferent ready to wear line. Of course, the designer herself also may have lent a hand on creating this vision of the VB muse. She's chic, understated and classic but never one to bore. Hands down, one of my favourites from New York.