Rei Kawakubo's latest offering is yet another incarnation of her unabashed gender-abstract genius. The boys walked out on the runway looking like a re-imagined group of Japanese visual-kei popstars from the late eighties (complete with gravity defying feathered wigs), but with a tougher and more modern kick. Instead of what used to be a pristine Gothic take on crossdressing, Kawakubo's boys were grittier, more sinister and deconstructed. Quilted and embroidered blazers were made of patchwork prints and textures; polka dots, plaids, florals and paisley were thrown together against tweeds and linens and tartans. Socks and hats made for a cheeky Harajuku throwback as well. The trouser was cropped to 3/4 length and pleated leather skirts provided the alternative, for what else would you expect? Kawakubo's trademark is that warped sense of sex when it comes to clothing and therein lies the beauty of her work. Clothes aren't merely blue and pink, trouser or skirt. In her vision however morose it may come across, there is unequaled egalitarianism which consistently enquires upon the lines that dictate style and society.
[images: nowfashion, via showstudio]
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