NYFW: Prabal Gurung A/W12-13

Twitter was sent into a frenzy almost immediately after Prabal Gurung's latest effort showcased in the Bag Apple this week, and so much so that I had to see it for myself toute suite. When I finally got ahold of the images, I got it. The A/W collection was stunning beyond words, in addition to the welcome shift in tone that the designer has taken. Instead of the usual light and delicate aesthetic, the pieces were dark- a complete 180, but a good turn at that. The palette had a slick, sci-fi touch to it with glossy blacks to stark, unblemished whites, bright cobalt blues, metallic, burnished golds and psychedelic mirror prints, while the silhouette was also kept in within the futuristic vibe. There were billowing capelets, sharply flared trousers and sheer, illusion beaded dresses that are to die for and coats piled high with fur. The overall tone spelled modern Glamazon-meets-Sci-Fi-Queen. Soft feminine touches weren't completely forgotten, as sheer panels, lace and feathers softened even the sharpest pieces. Overall, the collection was one of the highlights of New York Fashion Week, and the massive out pouring of appreciation online made for a fitting, global standing ovation. 

PFW: Yohji Yamamoto A/W12 Menswear

The theme for Yohji Yamamoto's A/W12 collection was ease and mobility, and with that in mind, he offered a louche silhouette that offered maximum comfort and movement. That's not to say however, that his jackets and suits bore no structure whatsoever. Quite the contrary, the tailoring was superb as it hung on the body to perfection. Some boasted asymmetrical lines, while a few showed signs of a militaristic touch with double breasted coats in Napoleonic hues of navy, and earth-toned woollen capes that draped with ease and effortlessness. The basic colour swatch was dark but rich, ranging from aubergines to bright scarlet against charcoal and black- but surprising shots of fluorescent limes and cyans and pinks injected a dose of modernity and youth. The textures contrasted well as silk satin separates paired off with tweeds and linens. The highlight of the show however, was Yamamoto's use of a variety of men, from all shapes and sizes and his statement was heard loud and clear. As much as his clothes are made for prime practicality, he also aims to create a line that suits everybody. From model clothes hangers to grungy middle aged gentlemen, the message of Yohji's artistry is universal style for everyone.

MFW: Trussardi A/W12 Menswear

Inspired by Formula 1 racer Jackie Stewart and probably the Scooby Doo Gang, Trussardi's Fall collection was undeniably suave and smooth and very 70s, albeit slightly creepy with those handle bar moustaches. Umit Benan decided to relish in The Flying Scotsman's hey day and in turn created a look complete with Stewart's trademark accoutrements such as the ombre aviator sunglasses, the ubiquitous flatcap and tight fitting turtleneck sweaters. The colour swatch was also very contemporary with rich shades of chestnut, oxblood and fire engine red, and likewise with his fabric choices. Velvet, corduroy, suede and kidskin appeared in the form of sixteen ensembles. The silhouette was slim and tight fitting, but not without the signature feature of the decade, the bellbottom flare of the trousers. Funnily enough, despite the heavily influenced aesthetic of the era, Trussardi's 2012 Fall collection still finds itself within our current state of style. The pieces are wearable and with the tides of fashion continuously rolling backwards, the consistent wave of 'tribute' collections have finally come full circle in that, these clothes may as well be new and fresh. A vintage aesthetic together with modern textures and cut is what sustains not just fashion, but style also. 

MFW: Burberry Prorsum A/W12 Menswear

For a Fall collection, it seems an odd choice to create a showacase full of bright popping hues, but then again when we get the winter blues it is this exact touch that lifts our mood and brings life to the cold and wintry season. This year, Christopher Bailey styled the Burberry gent in a very Dick Van Dyke-esque attire; Streamlined silhouettes, double breasted suits and a complete array of gentlemanly accessories including flatcaps, gloves and umbrellas. They all sound very typical of the label's aesthetic but the look was invigorated by bright jewel tones in turquoise, topaz and jasper, and rich earthy ochre hues in saffron and burnt sienna. Bailey continues his globetrotting colour swatch and it is made all the more striking against a conservative canvas of charcoal and dove gray suits. To battle the cold the boys were equipped with tri-colour striped overcoats, puffy windbreakers and cropped bomber jackets of tweed and flannel. To finish off the look, Bailey decided to take a cheeky turn and added quirky animals motifs, which already is looking like the IT trend of the season. Foxes appeared zanily across cozy woollen jumpers, while the suave umbrellas were capped with hand-carved ducks as handles. 

Milan Fashion Week: Dolce and Gabbana A/W12 Menswear

Now that my exams are out of the way, I finally get the time to really savour the collections for menswear. Visually that is. Nevertheless, I have chosen some favourites from all of the collections shown in Milan, and the first is Dolce and Gabbana's A/W12 Menswear showcase. Earlier last year it's been reported that the label has been suffering from the current financial turmoil within the industry and unfortunately as a result, they have closed down their D&G label. After this debacle one would think that the Italian duo would resort to clinical measures, ensuring a consumer-friendly collection to boost the company's mojo back in place, but true to form, Stefano and Dominico staged a collection that was the epitome of masculine sartorial excess to the sound of Verdi's La Traviata. Their fall collection was operatic and romantic; full of luxe fabrics from wool voile to velvet which literally dripped with ostentatious Gold bullion embroidery. The tailoring was sleek and close to the body, while silk and woolen pyjama trousers juxtaposed the look with a degree of foppish loucheness. The suits were sharp, with velvet accents while the coats were fit for a Romanov; capes and collars were trimmed in fur or astrakhan. The award for the most overhyped, yet probably most coveted piece of clothing however, goes to the grey woolen socks which boasted decadent bullion. Of course! Although the Dolce and Gabbana gentleman this fall may prove a bit too much for the everyday, average Joe but like Alex Fury of Showstudio concludes, "perhaps it is their antidote to harsh reality".